We were delighted to welcome Mr. Lindskog for lunch at The Oak the other day, and as usual he had plenty to say. Here’s his tasting notes on Leon’s Carpaccio of Hare, Pickled Swede, Leg Ragout, Confit Vegetables starter……..
This is bang-on proper restaurant food. Delicious and intelligently put together. It’s a little stack of skilled work and refinement. Paired with Lawson’s Dry Hills Pinot Noir it leaves your palate tingling in anticipation. Exactly as a starter should.
The leg ragout in isolation is homely (in the comforting rather than frumpy sense). The delicate little hare fillets are amazingly tender and boosted by tarragon. The pickled swede is sharp and crisp. Curried swede puree on top is earthy, light, and brings the whole thing together. Celery cress and viola flowers dress it up in extra fanciness.
There is, however, a bit of a steward’s enquiry. According to my Larousse Gastronomique (which I have just opened for the first time ever) a carpaccio is raw where this was very clearly seared, albeit just a little bit. So I’m not going to question whether this dish is a winner, because it won me over, but I am going to question whether it’s a carpaccio at all? Discuss.